‘Fine’ redefines food blogs

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Harlene Ellin of Oak Park works on her blog called "Fine" www.finedesigndine.com where she reviews, chefs, food and interiors of local restaurants. | Tamara Bell~Sun Times Media

Updated: July 15, 2011 12:20AM

In some ways, Harlene Ellin of Oak Park is a restaurant reviewer, but in most ways she’s not.

Please explain, Mr. Reporter.

Though Ellin has dined in a few clunker eating establishments, this journalist whose writings have appeared in Time magazine won’t crucify them in her new website called “Fine” at www.finedesigndine.com.

She launched the site in January from her North Grove Avenue home.

“It’s not a review, but a showcase of places I’ve eaten in. I always post the good and interesting stuff I’ve found, without downgrading,” said Ellin, 48, a former reporter and columnist at The State Journal-Register in Springfield.

“I want people to enjoy places where I’ve visited. If it’s bad, I won’t blog about it,” said Ellin, who grew up in Evanston.

Also apart from a traditional restaurant reviewer, Ellin writes about not only menu food, but the stories behind an eatery’s interior design and why a chef has made certain culinary choices in the kitchen.

For instance, she recently met a woman in Austin, Texas, who as a certified welder made furniture and light fixtures.

“She needed a showplace, so she opened a restaurant in Austin,” she explained.

Ellin also separated herself from bloggers.

“Technically, I’m a blogger, but I don’t talk to myself. I’m out there researching and talking to people,” said Ellin, whose interviewees have included nationally known chefs Rick Bayless, Omar Cantu and Stephanie Izard.

Ellin, who graduated in 2007 with an associate’s degree in hospitality design from Chicago’s Harrington College of Design, posts three times a week among three categories — design, dine or wine.

She foresaw a career change was needed when the reporting jobs grew scarce.

“The landscape of journalism had changed. Reporters were getting laid off and new editors brought on all the time. It was very depressing, and I had figure out something new,” Ellin said, explaining her decision to enter design school.

“I then got a job in residential design, but the recession hit. My family joked that I kill every industry I get into,” she said, laughing.

“I figured the Internet was safe. My husband, Mike Cramer, said I should take my experience in journalism and design and come up with a website.”

For fall, Ellin has planned a trip to Paris and Barcelona, where she will visit, test and write about restaurants. Most of her articles have been about Chicago restaurants, but she has covered ones in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New York City.

And she receives no restaurant freebies when reporting on them.

“I do want to make my website more national. People travel a lot,” said Ellin, adding she publishes a directory of restaurants she has written about.

On the Chicago restaurant scene, Ellin said, “places are packed.”

“This is definitely a food and eating town. People in Chicago follow their favorite chefs around.

“And chefs and restaurants don’t move at the same pace as in Los Angeles and New York City, where places are always opening and closing.”

Ellin also said a new food pattern was developing in Chicago.

“You’re starting to see more seasonal, organic and sustainable foods being served. It’s a big movement in Chicago.”